Whales behaving badly

Love is in the air, or at least in the water around the islands of Vava’u, a sanctuary for expectant mothers, a playground for curious youngsters and a breeding ground for amorous males.

It was the mating season, large groups of males vying for the attention of a desirable female. However, the females are usually more concerned about the well being of their new born calves, than selecting a potential mate. Nonetheless this does not deter male humpbacks from pursuing a mother and calf for several days in the hope of becoming the next potential mate.

Their primal instinct is to mate and the competition is profuse. The courting ritual can take hours and once the competition gets heated, you don’t want to get in their way. Each whale aggressively manoeuvres for the best position to mate. It is this type of behaviour that has rarely been documented. To bare witness to these activities is exhilarating to say the least, but a privilege that very few people ever experience.

The encounters this year were exceptional. On one occasion we spent an hour and a half with six adult humpbacks. We stared down into the depths watching every move these leviathans made, a transcendental experience, as six adult humpbacks frolicked around us. Floating like bobbing corks on the water’s surface, our eyes were fixated on the activity below. I literally didn’t know which way to turn as I watched this group of whales gracefully glide beneath me and surface only metres away to take a breath. But things were about to get rowdy.

Their actions became more deliberate. An antagonistic show of air bubbles streamed from one of the males as he moved towards the female. As the meeting of masses continued to churn up the water we moved to a safe distant. One of the male humpbacks presented himself to the female in an attempt to initiate the mating. Just as it started to get interesting the group of humpbacks began to take their activities further out to sea. We decided it was time to take our voyeuristic behaviour elsewhere.

Over the past three years I have spent a great deal of time in the water with these magnificent creatures observing all types of behaviour. Whales gracefully glide through the water without any real exertion, and the perception is one of slow motion. Watching a whale propelling itself at high speed from the depths to breach less than 50 metres in front of us was an extraordinary sight. All of a sudden there was 45 tonnes of whale launching out of the water. A split second later we lifted our heads out of the water to witness a dramatic splash. The first of several splashes, as she continued to breach. This impressive behaviour is the epitome of the humpback whale.

Whale watching is quite addictive and no matter what the weather, the consensus was always to seek out cooperative whales for a little inter-species interaction. One rainy day we discovered a mother and calf in the shallows over the top of a reef. As we approached the whales, an impulsive calf suddenly sped towards us breaching within arms length of the boat, creating frenzy onboard as everyone dived for their cameras. The baby continued to breach for several minutes, but eventually tired. We watched as the mother and calf settled on the surface giving us the opportunity to enter the water and approach the whales. At ease with our presence a curious calf frolicked around us.

The mother seemed completely comfortable with us in the water. She hovered about 10 metres below the surface with her eyes closed while the inquisitive calf continued to explore its surroundings. Like any juvenile, the calf was curious but cautious, coming that little bit closer to us with each an every approach, but quickly gliding back towards its mother. Intrigued by the trust and confidence of this mother and calf we moved around them freely enjoying the mutuality of the encounter. It is easy to see why people have an affinity with these creatures.

Humpback whales have very distinct characteristics and it is clear to see that each whale has a unique personality. It is these distinctive traits that determine the type of interaction. I have encountered whales that were curious, some that were oblivious to us, some that initiated the interaction, some that showed recognition and some that seemed to be enjoying our company. It is hard to see these distant cousins as just animals when you experience such diverse behaviour. They are as unpredictable as us and you can always count on a surprise.

I recall the first day out on the water, a whale lying on its back urinating in the air. Naively though, I thought that whales must do this all the time until I heard a streak from the researcher standing next to me “take a picture!” with great urgency in her voice. Apparently this type of behaviour is very rarely seen in nature or even captivity. The more time I spend in Tonga the more I realise how little we know about the complex social behaviours of humpback whales. But what better place to get acquainted with the behaviours exhibited by these creatures, than in their own environment. You can learn a lot from being in the water with a humpback and Tonga provides the perfect opportunity to observe behaviour that has seldom been seen. By respecting these natural resources we can ensure the protection of such a unique sanctuary.

There are many misconceptions people have about this activity. We do not scuba dive with the whales, it is purely snorkelling, as air bubbles from a divers regulator may be misconstrued as a sign of aggression. We do not dive down to the whales as we may be seen as a potential threat, invading an environment where they feel secure. We enter the water by sliding in from the edge or stern of the boat. We try to minimise any erratic movement when approaching the whales, by streamlining our kicking below the surface of the water. And we never corner a whale. The boat should always be a comfortable distance from the whales. Although these guidelines are voluntary for licensed whale watch operators, they are designed to let the whales determine the encounter.

As most people experience whale watching primarily from above the water, observing the natural behaviour of these gentle giants in their own environment is a unique experience. People often feel a strong connection to these marine mammals that can only be expressed through a mutual understanding of one’s presence. But describing the emotion and sheer enormity of swimming with a humpback whale and why it evokes such emotion can sometimes be a difficult task. Some people cry, some go into a catatonic state, and some are simply on a high for days after an encounter. If you have ever dreamed of swimming with a whale, you may want to pinch yourself. Vava’u is where your dream becomes a reality.

The Islands of Vava’u

Besides the allure of swimming with humpback whales Vava’u offers a beautiful vista on which to explore unspoiled islands, snorkel coral reefs, dive through caves, kayak calm waters, or simply relax on a beach. The waters around Vava’u are inviting to all manner of creatures. Its sapphire blue water surrounds a limestone spackle of lush green flora, a tropical paradise encompassing more than 150 islands. This is what makes Tonga so special.

The accessibility of these islands makes it ideal for snorkelling and exploring caves and coral reefs. One of the most spectacular caves is ‘Mariners’ a beautiful cave which entails diving down a few metres through a large opening beneath the surface into a brilliant limestone chasm, lit by the shimmering light from the cave entrance. As the pressure inside the cave builds from the swell outside, a foggy vapour fills the cave. Your ears pop as the pressure forces your body to equalise.

Legend has it, that the cave was a hiding place for a Tongan princess who was condemned by a tyrant chief for conspiracy. Rescued by a rival chief, he hid her in the cave and would visit everyday bringing her food, water and clothing. The Tongan princess soon fell in love with the chief. The chief devised a plan to get her out of Tonga and take her to Fiji. Expected by the elders to take a wife before embarking on this journey, he agreed and exclaimed he would find one on the way. True to his word he stopped at the cave, dove into the water and a few minutes later returned with the Princess. Before anyone learned or her real identity they were safely on their way to Fiji. They returned to Vava’u 2 years later, when news of the Tyrant chief’s death had been learned, and lived happily ever after.

Equally impressive, ‘Swallows’ cave, with its ornate entrance, provides a less intimidating opportunity for snorkellers and kayakers looking to explore this limestone cathedral. Stunning beams of sunlight piece the surface of the tranquil crystal clear water. You can lay on the surface for hours and watch dances of light on the bottom of the cave. In recent years large schools of fish inhabited this cave adding a different dimension to an already picturesque environment.

With so many coral reefs to explore, it is easy to discover some of the most beautiful locations around Vava’u to snorkel. One of the most spectacular examples of living coral is in a place called ‘Mala’ or affectionately known as the ‘Japanese gardens’. Abundant in sea life this is one of the best areas to see a myriad of different species. Oh, and you will find nemo there and hundreds of other species as well.

The Tongan culture is quite beautiful and the people are very friendly and hospitable. Everyday opened the door on the diversity of these island people. One thing you will learn quite quickly is that Tongan’s love to sing and because of the religious influence throughout these islands, you will often hear a choir singing hymns in the early hours of the morning. For the tourist the locals often put on a traditional Tongan feast consisting of fresh fruit, fish, tarot root, suckling pig and an assortment of meat cooked in an Umu beneath the ground. Before the meal the local children will dress in traditional Tongan clothing and perform a number of Tongan dances depicting a story synonymous with their cultural background. As a tourist you are expected to make a donation, by placing a few Pa’angas (Tongan dollars) on the back of the children, which goes towards books and other supplies for the local schools.

For all that Tonga has to offer, especially the privilege of swimming with humpback whales, you can’t go past the many things that make Tonga a beautiful destination to visit.

The operation follows strict guidelines and the whales are never in distress. The tour operator Rae Gill is a conservationist and plays a pivotal role in educating the community about the importance of protecting these valuable resources. WhaleSwim Adventures is committed to whale conservation and fully supports the non-harassment policies of the Whale watching Guidelines in place in Tonga. They also support the implementation of the South Pacific Whale Sanctuary and of course, a World Whale Sanctuary. Email: tours@whaleswim.com website: www.whaleswim.com

All international flights to Tonga fly via Auckland, New Zealand; Nadi Fiji; Apia, Samoa, or Sydney Australia. The airlines are Polynesian Airlines and Air Pacific who are members of the One World group and Air New Zealand who is a member of the Star Alliance group. You can also fly Royal Tongan Airlines daily out of Auckland and every Thursday & Monday out of Sydney, Australia. After arriving in Tonga (Tongatapu) you will need to get a 1.15hour domestic flight to the island of Vava'u to join the WhaleSwim Adventure expeditions.