Whales in Paradise

In a tropical paradise filled with pristine coral reefs, uninhabited islands and a vast array of thriving marine life, there is one creature that makes the Kingdom of Tonga its winter vacation spot. Humpback whales appear each year between August and October in various numbers to mate and give birth in the calm sheltered waters of the islands of Vava’u.

Humpback whales have become a prominent part of the Tongan culture and their way of life, so much so that it has given birth to a whale watching industry that dominates tourism within the region. Each year tourists from around the world visit Vava’u to capture a glimpse of these magnificent creatures. What they are not prepared for, is the up close and personal encounter they experience.

Anticipation of something new is usually people’s worse enemy, but after years of swimming with these gentle giants, I always have an expectation that I am back to see some old friends. More and more each year I realize that swimming with these magnificent creatures is a privilege and an opportunity I want to share with others.

My first day out on the water exceeded previous expectations as we came across a mother and calf that were staying close to the shallows. These whales seemed unperturbed by our presence as we entered the water and slowly snorkeled towards them. At first the mother was a little protective of the calf but soon realized we were no threat. The whales seemed to acknowledge our presence and were just as curious about us and our behaviour.

On this occasion the mother calmly hovered in the shallows as the calf remained above her in a stationary position. It was amazing to see these creatures so relaxed around us. Often the mother will hover metres below the surface resting with her eyes shut, as the calf actively plays and interacts with the swimmers. However the calf is always conscious not to venture too far away from its mother and she is always aware of where her baby is at all times.

One of the best things about sharing this experience with other people is watching the different ways people react. On a number of occasions I was in the water with people when a young calf or adult would approach curiously. All of a sudden people would grab my arms and back paddle at the same time. I guess these creatures are quite overwhelming, and you can not help but feel intimidated by their size. I think when people realize the enormity of such an encounter they often take a step back to really think about how it has effected them.

Every year I learn more and more about these magnificent creatures and their behaviour, almost to a point where I can anticipate their movement, level of comfort with swimmers or reaction to our presence in the water. But rational thought and guidelines about swimming with whales can often be forgotten from the pure exhilaration of being in the water with these leviathans.

One of the most amazing encounters for the season was when we got in the water with a mother, calf and large escort. They were below the surface for a while so I decided to slide into the water and have a look if I could see them. To my surprise, as soon as I got off the back of the boat I was face to face with 3 humpback whales, literally metres in front of me. It was underwater chaos as I reached for my camera to take a photo, but the whales were so close that I couldn’t even get the camera to focus. I may not have got that perfect shot but the experience was unforgettable.

The whales maneuvered around me and swam directly beneath the boat. At one point I saw the escort bring its massive head out of the water and open its gigantic mouth. Our driver who was on the boat got the most spectacular views as the whale spy hopped right next to the boat with mouth gaping. No matter whether you were in the water or on the boat that day these whales were giving the performance of a lifetime.

Humpback whales are quite charismatic and are known for their aerial behaviour. Early one morning when the water was flat we decided to explore the outer edges of the islands. In the distance our skipper had sighted a huge splash, which in these waters is often an indication of a whale breaching. We sped towards the distant splash in an attempt to fine the source of the commotion. Our experienced skipper decided that we would turn the engine off and wait for a while to see if we could spot a breach or blow. Within minutes a young adult whale had come in close to investigate us, but was being quite coy and staying below the surface for extended periods.

In an instant the whale breached in front of us, no more than about 30 metres. He then continued to do so, coming closer to the boat as he propelled his 30 ton body out of the water. We had an amazing view and could not ask for a better position to capture all the action. The whale seemed jubilant as if he was showing off. And we didn’t mind one bit.

It’s hard to imagine how whaling nations could condemn these creatures to death without knowing them intimately. Whales seek out social interactivity and are quite curious creatures just like people. Humpback whales are protected in parts of the South Pacific but are still open to threat from political pressure to resume whaling in this region. It is this specific group of humpback whales that we are building ties with in Tonga that will be hunted when the Japanese resume their whaling activities next year.

The operation follows strict guidelines and the whales are never in distress. The tour operator Rae Gill is a conservationist and plays a pivotal role in educating the community about the importance of protecting these valuable resources. WhaleSwim Adventures is committed to whale conservation and fully supports the non-harassment policies of the Whale watching Guidelines in place in Tonga. They also support the implementation of the South Pacific Whale Sanctuary and of course, a World Whale Sanctuary. Email: tours@whaleswim.com website: www.whaleswim.com

All international flights to Tonga fly via Auckland, New Zealand; Nadi Fiji; Apia, Samoa, or Sydney Australia. The airlines are Polynesian Airlines and Air Pacific who are members of the One World group and Air New Zealand who is a member of the Star Alliance group. You can also fly Royal Tongan Airlines daily out of Auckland and every Thursday & Monday out of Sydney, Australia. After arriving in Tonga (Tongatapu) you will need to get a 1.15hour domestic flight to the island of Vava'u to join the WhaleSwim Adventure expeditions.